The hunger reads: Griselda Heppel finds books mouth-watering
There’s something about
people all around me forgoing delicious things – like chocolate and wine – that
has me thinking of food like never before. (I gave up giving anything up for
New Year/Lent a long time ago. Life in winter is miserable enough.) How apt
then, that Laura Freeman’s publishers, W & N, should have chosen
mid-February to launch her memoir, The
Reading Cure: How Books Restored My Appetite, in which she describes how
the mouth-watering descriptions of food in the great classics saved her from
the worst ravages of anorexia. Siegfried
Sassoon fortifying himself with boiled eggs and cocoa before a dawn hunt (Memoirs of a Foxhunting Man); Mrs
Cratchit’s plum pudding – ‘a speckled cannon ball…blazing in half of
half-a-quartern of ignited brandy’ (A
Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens) – these glorious images tempted her
back to the warmth, nourishment and companionship of good things. For most of
us, books are food for the soul; for Freeman, they turned out to be food for
the body, too.
Speckled plum pudding in A Christmas Carol |
Reading her article in the Sunday Times, https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/books-saved-me-from-starving-myself-to-death-ls2cd8c75,
I wanted to punch the air. Anorexia is a terrible, relentless illness. Freeman
describes the mental state it induces in terms of a library full of smashed
book cases, in which the calm and order the sufferer longs for are reduced to
splinters of glass and wood and rain spattered paper. The fact that books saved
her, gave her ‘reasons to eat, share, live, to want to be well,’ shows how much
the senses are involved in the pleasure of reading, not just the mind.
For proof, I challenge you to read this list
of provisions from St Agnes’s Eve by
John Keats and not a) drool, or b) feel sick (depending on your sweetness of
tooth).
‘…a
heap
Of
candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd
With
jellies, soother than the creamy curd…’
No prizes for guessing my
reaction to these glorious lines. But then I always did like fruit jellies and
cream, and my enjoyment of this poem harks back to some very early reading indeed.
Aged 5, my favourite of the My Naughty Little Sister stories by Dorothy Edwards was the one where she and Bad Harry sneak into the larder and demolish a splendid trifle planned for his birthday party, beginning with the silver balls and jelly sweets on the top before diving into whipped cream, custard and sponge below. Ok, so it’s not exactly Keats... but it’s a fine example of the importance of food in children’s books.
Delightful as these interludes are, their role in the plot shouldn’t be underrated,
especially in adventure stories. If you’re going to thrust your characters into
hair-raising situations, making them perform superhuman tasks, you’d better
make sure you feed them. You’re already asking your readers to suspend a lot of
disbelief; rendering your heroes immune to normal human needs is pushing it.
‘Taking a strawberry, Ante allowed it to burst in her
mouth, rolling its warmth and sweetness
on her tongue.’
My inspiration for
calling up the sensuous pleasure of food was the scene in The Last Battle, where C S Lewis allows his characters a rest from
all the fighting:
‘All I can say is that, compared with
those fruits, the freshest grape-fruit you’ve ever eaten was dull, and the
juiciest orange was dry, and the most melting pear was hard and woody, and the
sweetest wild strawberry was sour.’
Just reading that again after all these
years makes my mouth water.
How wonderful, then, that Laura Freeman’s
delight in words has altered the balance of power between herself and her
anorexia. It’s not a magic cure – she acknowledges the anorexia may never go
away altogether – but it’s books that have brought her back to the idea of food
and feasting with friends being something to enjoy, not dread. Books can literally save your life.
But we knew that.
Find out more about Griselda Heppel here:
and her children's books:
Comments
And Umberto, your Italian Renaissance wedding feast sounds delectable!